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My city, told through food

“Throughout my life, I’ve experienced many forms of cooking due to circumstance: as a child in hard times, as a mother spoiling my husband and children, and finally at work, in charge of the canteen. However, above all, the greatest pleasure in cooking is for friends, spending the summers in Naples and Sicily. My passion was forged out of a strong curiosity to experiment, invent, and enhance my recipes. After all, cooking is culture, reflecting the history of a country and the traditions of its people.”

- Germana, Cesarina since 2017

Below, you can read an extract from Germana's Biografood book, which tells her fascinating story...

My Walking Route

• Unmissable places to visit •

Firstly, to start off this Neapolitan tour, a good breakfast is essential. One of the best pastry shops in the city, Scaturchio, is found in Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, at number 19. Local specialties include babà, sfogliatelle, pastiera, and zeppole of San Giuseppe. However, my personal recommendation is Ministeriale, a small chocolate cake with liqueur cream inside.

Satisfied and moving on from piazza San Domenico, take via Francesco De Santis to arrive at number 19/21 at the museo Cappella Sansevero, inside you will find the statue of the Veiled Christ among the other wonders. I recommend booking a slot to avoid queueing.

Continuing on, you’ll arrive at via San Gregorio Armeno, also known as “la strada dei pastori” (the road of the shepherds). There can be found an exhibition of craft shops making figurines for nativity scenes. The best known is Ferrigno - Arte dei pastori in terracotta, at number 8. It’s definitely worth spending some time to see all the figurines.

Arriving at the top of the road, in piazza San Gaetano you will find Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore, one of the oldest churches in the city, decorated in an ornate, gothic style. This area is also perfect for lunch: try a true Neapolitan pizza in via Tribunali n.  120, at the Pizzeria dal Presidente.

After, taking via dei Tribunali to the right, you will come across the wonderful cathedral of San Gennaro, in via Duomo n. 147, and its rich works of art and mosaics. Here there is a chapel dedicated to the patron saint of the city, and inside his relics, blood, and other artifacts are stored regarding the famous Miracle of San Gennaro (Miracolo di San Gennaro).

About Biografood

This Naples guide is an extract from our Biografood series.

Biografood is an editorial project at the heart of Cesarine, born from a desire to explore deeper relationships which unify traditional cooking with Italian daily life. Each Biografood volume voices the individual story of a Cesarina. The narrator of each book traces back a journey through the flavours and aromas which have accompanied them since childhood.

With these unique culinary biographies, memories are revived to piece together personal moments in time as one collective memory, illustrating the life of an Italian and their gastronomic heritage, carved into a nation which has built itself on traditions around the table.

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