Crescentine: Emilia’s Golden Pillows

If you find yourself in Emilia, roughly in the area stretching from Parma to Bologna, and step into a traditional trattoria, chances are you’ll spot a basket of golden, pillow-like bites of fried dough, crispy on the outside, soft and airy inside. These are crescentine, one of the most beloved street foods of Emilia’s culinary tradition.

But here’s where things get tricky for visitors: the name changes depending on where you are. In Parma, ask for “pizza fritta”; in Bologna, it’s “crescentina”; and in Modena or Reggio Emilia, order “gnocco fritto”. Different names, same irresistible treat: puffy rectangles (or diamonds) of dough fried in hot oil (or, more traditionally, in lard) that rise into golden pillows, ready to be paired with cured meats and cheeses.

Freshly fried crescentine are best enjoyed piping hot, perfect as a fun appetizer or a casual dinner with friends, served with salumi, cheeses, jams, or even a swipe of chocolate spread. But they’re just as tempting the next day, so much so that in the Emilia countryside, grandparents used to dip them into their morning coffee instead of bread.
The recipe is simple, with just a few ingredients, but to achieve the perfect result, crispy yet not greasy, there are some golden rules:

• roll the dough thin,
• let it rest long enough,
• fry in lard (or oil for a lighter version),
• keep the oil at a steady, moderate temperature for that even golden color.

Now that you know all about these Emilian delights, it’s time to get cooking! Roll out the dough, fry away, and bring to the table a basket of hot, fluffy gnocco fritto (aka crescentine, aka pizza fritta) that will add a true taste of Emilia to your next meal with family and friends.