Trianata surbina, a typical dish from Apulia

The Trianata

09/21/2025

There are dishes so deeply rooted in the identity of a place that, just a few miles away, no one knows they exist. Take trianata, for example. Ever heard of it? Probably not—unless you’re from Surbo, a small town of about 15,000 people in the province of Lecce, in southern Italy. It’s right here, in the heart of Salento, that this ancient recipe was born—back when bread was made at home and taken to the village’s stone ovens to bake. Like many traditional peasant dishes, trianata comes from humble beginnings: simple, readily available ingredients that, when combined, create a flavor-packed, unforgettable dish.

But what exactly is trianata? It’s a savory baked casserole made by layering potatoes, onions, tomatoes, and herbs, all brought together by crunchy coils of bread dough—known locally as maccheroni. The name itself comes from tria, an old term for homemade pasta.

Tempted to try it? Unless you’re lucky enough to visit Surbo and find one of the few bakeries that still prepare it—or have a true local friend who’ll make it for you—you’ll need to roll up your sleeves and make it yourself. Follow the recipe from our Cesarina Loreta (a proud Surbo native, of course) and get ready to get your hands dirty. But be warned: this isn’t a quick dish. Trianata takes time, patience, and above all, love. Still, we promise the final result is more than worth the effort.

Trianata subrina, preparazione, Cesarina Loreta

And like all the great dishes of Italian tradition, trianata is meant to be shared—best enjoyed at a table full of family and friends. Because trianata is more than just a meal: it’s an act of love, a communal ritual that brings people together and warms the soul.

“When we made trianata, the whole family would gather—it was always a celebration at our grandparents’ house. Here in Surbo, trianata is an institution. It’s the symbol of our town”.

Trianata

Traditional layered bread and vegetable bake from Surbo (Apulia) that transforms simple ingredients into an explosion of flavor

DifficultyEasy

Preparation time1h

Cooking time1h

Servings8

€

CostLow

Ingredients

For the maccheroni (serves 8):
500 g semolina flour
250 g room-temperature water
A pinch of salt
A pinch of yeast (dry or fresh, dissolved in water)
For the trianata:
500 g of homemade maccheroni (bread dough cords)
8–9 medium potatoes
1 bunch of fresh parsley
7–8 ripe cherry tomatoes
1 medium onion
5–6 bay leaves
Salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
Grated Parmesan cheese, to taste
Water, as needed
Extra virgin olive oil, as needed

Method

For the maccheroni:

On a clean surface, pile the semolina flour into a mound and create a well in the center.
Gradually pour the water into the center and begin mixing with your hands, incorporating the pinch of salt and the dissolved yeast.
Knead the dough until it becomes smooth and uniform.
Let it rest for 15 minutes under a clean cloth.
Once rested, roll the dough into long cords—the length of the baking dish you plan to use. These are your maccheroni (not pasta, but strands of bread dough).

For the trianata:

Preheat the oven to 200°C (about 390°F), using the convection/fan setting if available.
Generously oil a baking dish.
Layer sliced tomatoes and potatoes (cut into medium-thick rounds) at the bottom.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley, chopped onion, whole bay leaves, grated Parmesan, salt, and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil.
Add a layer of maccheroni, laying the dough strands side by side.
Repeat the process, alternating layers of vegetables and maccheroni. For the final layer, place the maccheroni perpendicular to the previous layer to create a crisscross pattern.
Finish with a generous sprinkle of Parmesan.
In a pitcher, mix salted water to taste and pour it into the baking dish until it slightly covers the top layer of maccheroni.
Bake for a little over an hour, until the top layer becomes golden and crispy.
Let it cool slightly before serving. Enjoy!