Susamielli

In these December days, the shortest of the year, it feels only natural to crave a little comfort, perhaps with something sweet made by hand, to be enjoyed, why not, alongside a glass of homemade liqueur. That’s why we’re sharing with you the recipe from our Cesarina Francesca of Civitavecchia, who brings to the table a traditional specialty from Campania: the Susamielli.

“My mother was the one who taught me the importance of tradition, of respecting recipes passed down through generations, and of loving desserts that tell a story. Preparing Susamielli is truly an act of love for our culture and our roots”.

Susamielli: an ancient tradition to celebrate Christmas

Crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, Susamielli are classic cookies from Naples, usually baked before December 8th so they can be enjoyed throughout the holiday season. They are known for their spiced flavor, thanks to “pisto napoletano” (a blend of cinnamon, black pepper, nutmeg, and cloves), and for their unmistakable “S” shape, perhaps a tribute to Saint Joseph, or maybe a reference to the serpent, symbol of sin, which was symbolically “sweetened” by these festive treats.

The origin of both the recipe and the name is shrouded in the mists of history. Some believe the first written recipe appeared in a late 18th-century cookbook. The name may come from the Latin words sesamum (sesame) and mel (honey), since the cookies were once coated with sesame seeds, later replaced with almonds.

Similar sweets were likely baked as far back as Ancient Greece, offered in temples to Demeter and Kore in exchange for protection. In 17th-century Naples, Susamielli-like cookies were made by the Poor Clares of the Santa Maria della Sapienza convent. They became known as “sapienze”, after the monastery itself.

The three kinds of Susamielli

In the past, there were three distinct varieties of Susamielli, each tied to a different social class. The “Susamielli dei nobili” were reserved for aristocratic families, prepared with refined white flour, honey, and almonds (this is the version most common today). The “Susamielli del buon cammino” were made for priests and friars, enriched with sour cherry jam. Finally, the humble “Susamielli dello zampognaro” were baked with coarse flour and offered to the zampognari, traditional shepherd bagpipers who would play in the streets during the Christmas season.