Kneading Bari: focaccia and fresh pasta at my place

The city of Bari is a fascinating discovery. The city’s two “faces” consist of the elegant murattiano neighborhood (the modern district) and the old city of Bari, nestled on the Adriatic Sea.    Bari is a sun-filled city, full of historical and gastronomic traditions. Here, you can explore the narrow streets of the old city, guided by the scent of Friselle (a dry and crunchy twice-baked bread), fresh olive oil and sun-ripened tomatoes, or watch mesmerized as the local massaie (homemakers) work intently at the art of folding orecchiette, which is not just a pasta, but a gastronomic religion.  The flavors and aromas of Bari’s cuisine take us to the home of our Cesarina, Juanita, who inherited her passion for the culinary arts from her grandmother Matilda, queen of the kitchen. Her name - Juanita - can be misleading; however, she really is of Puglia origins. This is made apparent just by sitting at her table, a table full of dishes linked to the local traditions, typical orecchiette con rape (rapini or broccoli raab with pasta), il polpo alla pignata (stewed octopus) or cavatelli con le cozze (pasta with mussels), and of course taralli (a dry and crunchy bread twist) that accompany every dish.